![]() I run the wireless network for the Scale conference (picture 3500 geeks showing up to use your wifi), and we routinly run 100+ APs with the same SSID to cover the area. If you can run a wire between APs, you can get much more reliable results. I am not a fan of mesh networks, they can work if they aren’t heavily loaded, but they will tend to fail faster due to the increased airtime congestion. I purchased one, but have it loaned out for a couple months, so I won’t be able to experiment to confirm this for a while.īut in any case, you can hook up something on the inside of the stock router that doesn’t know or care anything about starlink. I believe that the 1st gen starlink dishes can be powered by a PoE device/switch and have heard that it’s possible to use the dish with a normal router. We’ll just have to see what breaks over time. The cable itself is a weak link too – especially when a Cat5e patch cable is trying to carry higher power. No matter what convoluted wiring technique (I’ve seen them all on various high powered industrial Internet equipment – and they all fail at some point), you have to inject / extract power on the Ethernet isolation coil center taps and carry that power over the Ethernet cable.Certainly the Ethernet isolation transformer as supplied on Gen3 dishy is not rated for higher power levels seen on Starlinks, so I suspect there will be reliability issues over time, especially in hot weather. These rectangle dishes are measuring well over 70W (I’ve read >180W with heaters on, although I have to test that here) And that’s the point. POE kinda sucks for longer cable runs and higher power, and is really not Eco-friendly in these applications – wasting quite a bit of power over a year just heating the little 24AWG Cat5E patch cable that Starlink provides. Yes, there is NO real standard for anything over 71W on POE (there is a reason for that). The round dishy’s seemed to be much better – even though they are heavier. Some of the system is impressive, but the design of the Gen 3 user terminal seems really clumsy. They couldn’t spare the pennies cost for a reset switch? The Rectangular Starlink dish is just glued together to make it not very repairable or recyclable…I guess filling the landfill is preferable to spending a few pennies for housing screws. ![]() Over all it seems like Starlink is trying to make everything cheap as possible – like not supplying a reset switch on the router. In fact it looks like Starlink dish is using the same basic POE reference design, but doing something goofy along the way with wiring contact assignments. People are reporting Dishy needs 180W power with snow heaters turned on, but that same Wurth transformer is supplied with the MAX5995A POE PD reference design kit sitting on my desk – and that transformer is good for about 70W power max., Not sure what they are doing here. If you look at the MikeonSpace YouTube video of the Dishy Gen 3 teardown part 1, the POE injection / extraction transformer on the dish is Wurh 7490220126. What is curious it looks like they are using double contacts for half the POE – when they should be using double contacts for all four wire pairs for that size contact surface area in the connectors. ![]() I thought they where plastic spacers, but when you examine the contacts under a microscope, the edge pins are covered in what looks like black paint or coating on those contacts. My Ethernet dongle adapter seems the same once opened up, but pins 9, 10, 19, 20 on your diagram, on the wire-hanging router side plug, they have a black coating – which doesn’t conduct well.
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